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Trip: North Coast – West of Chania town

Chania, TripsMarch 14, 2016admin

Akrotiri-Venizelos tombs-Archaeological museum-Gerani-Ravduha

After a good breakfast, ride your vehicle and be ready for a trip back to Pirates’ times!

The first monastery (14km from Chania center, follow signs for Akrotiri or Chania airport) is named “Agia Triada” and is a small and aesthetic example of the unique Venetian influence to the Cretan architecture during the old times.

Builders were only the two monks who established the monastery (17th century) instead of using high technology they had stones, marble, wood, a lot of faith and plenty of time!! (It took them more than 30 years to finish the monastery). However, even today, the visitor is able to enjoy the refreshing, clean, tidy environment with many trees and flowers in the yard, and if you can ignore the cars’ sounds of the road outside (it’s quite easy – no much traffic), you may feel the spirit of everyday life in the monastery 400 years ago!

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After 1 Km you turn right, and 4 km later, you can see another monastery, (named Gouvernetou) looking a bit abounded comparing with the previous one. This is the 2nd (latest) building that the monks of Agios Ioannis monastery decided to create after getting bored and pissed off (even monks can be very pissed off) because of the big number of pirates’ attacks to the 1st building which was located closer to the coast.

The monastery “Gouvernetou” is half monastery, half castle. You can see (apart from the high wide stone walls) 4 towers at the 4 corners of the building, with special halls for throwing arrows and boiling water or oil to the enemies! One day, the peaceful monks of the monastery of “Agios Ioannis” (whose basic wish was to pray to God) got board of the attacks of wild pirates, and decide to abound the monastery, building a new one in a safer spot. This is exactly what happened when the monks of “Agios Ioannis” (established in the 10th century) moved out and build the “Gouvernetou” one, 5 centuries later.

Most of the monasteries in Greece (so in Crete also) are closed for visitors for a few hours after midday. The best time to visit them is usually before 13:00 and after 16:00 till 19:00. However you better ask in a tourist agency to call to the monastery and find out exactly the visiting hours, unless the building is abounded, without door, so it is open 24hours.

If you like walking and you have proper tracking shoes (even simple sport shoes are ok, just don’t use sandals for the beach), there is a path going North (and down) and after half an hour you appear at the oldest (abounded today) monastery of Crete, “Agios Ioannis or Katholiko”.

However, less than 10 minutes from the beginning of the path, you can see a small old wooden door on your right side. If you enter, you visit a small cave with many stalactites and stalagmites, and a little church build in the rocks, which was used as a hiding place when the locals were in danger from the Arabs, pirates, Turks, or anybody who wanted to decorate his house with their heads.

The most impressive part of the cave is a natural cistern, full of water from the drops of the roof, and very next to it, there is a big stalagmite in the shape (and natural size) of a bear.

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There are many myths and stories related with this natural construction. The most popular of them is about a big very aggressive bear, which used to attack to people and killed many. After a lot of prayers by the locals, Virgin Mary saved them from the wild animal. One day when the bear approached the cave to drink water, She turned the animal to a stone until today.

On your way down to the oldest monastery of Agios Ioannis, probably you won’t see any bears, but you’ll see many wooden little houses with bear’s favorite food. These bee houses are the spots, where one of the most precious nutrition treasures in the planet is made. The great variety of wild herbs and flowers of the area, like thyme, gives to the honey the bright golden color and the fantastic, extra healthy, characteristic flavor (hard to forget if you try the original, even once).

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In 20 mins from the cave, you see the small but impressive entrance of the monastery “Agios Ioannis or Katholiko“, and on your left, at the ground level there is a hole about 2 meters opening and more than 100meters deep. This cave was the house of the person who lived very self-disciplined life, dedicated to God, and it was him who inspired other hermits to build this monastery after some centuries. He lived his life praying, and eating everything he could find around, mostly wild greens and carobs. After his death, Orthodox Church announced him as a saint and from John (=Ioannis) the Hermit, he became Saint John the Hermit (= Agios Ioannis o erimitis) and the old monastery was named because of him. There is an impressive story connected with his death and the big stone he died on.

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Another impressive element is the big stone bridge (more than 15meters wide). The main building – church is built completely in the rock except only the front wall. If you enter during a hot day you can feel the difference of natural air-conditioned room! Just keep in mind that if on your way back (which means way up), the time is from 2 to 5pm you will feel very uncomfortable in case of a very warm day.

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Of course you have another choice, to keep walking down to the coast and to have a refreshing swim before your way back. There is no beach, just big plane rocks were you can lie down or dive to the sea, but the water is so clear and deep blue and green, that you won’t care the absence of a sandy beach. Just keep in mind the wind. If you see from the monastery big waves to the open sea, forget swimming. Wind here is so strong that makes the few trees bending, as they try to grow.

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On your way back from Akrotiri you can turn right in a small roundabout following the signs for Venizelos’ tombs (graves) to enjoy tasty sweets with a panoramic view of the town of Chania and the open sea, but this is suggested later on, for another DAY-TRIP.

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I would recommend driving back to Chania center, and spend the hottest part of the day in one of the most impressive, interesting and cool temperature buildings of Chania. The archeological museum!

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After a couple of hours there, admiring the ancient treasures and the architecture style of the building, you might wish to drive, looking for a nice place to swim, away from the crowds. So, you drive again out of Chania town to the National road, following the singes for Kissamos (or Kastelli), direction West.

If it is not very windy (unless you like swimming on huge waves) as you move on the National road (direction West) take the exit to Platanias (14 km after Chania). In case you have been in Platanias before, don’t worry – you won’t have to drive through this extremely busy resort area. Just in 2 mins after the exit (be very careful at one right curve of the road) it is not possible to drive straight anymore (there is also a STOP sign for you). You have just appeared at the old national road (ΠΕΟ). Turn left and after 2 km drive very slowly because you have to turn right (direction to the sea) exactly at the spot you see the sign of “Dafnis villas” (Check the extra photo gallery). The name of the area is Pirgos Psilonerou.

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If you don’t miss this turn, you are very close to “cafe Tsepetis” (you can click here for google map-next to hotel Asterion). This is the place you can park your car under a special made sun protected spot for vehicles in the big yard, and feel ready to relax and enjoy a nice swim with some extra surprises, such as:

  • The unique little white flowers called “Krinakia of the sea”, or “Krinakia of The Virgin Mary” growing in the sand of the beach (be aware not to step on them when you walk to the sea).
  • The beautiful, smoothly beach with the few shining little stones on the sand.
  • The few sea beds and umbrellas just in front of the “Tsepetis” cafe. Oups!! The pictures are taken end of October! Mr. Giannis keeps them in his storage room, till next May. I promise, he puts them back there every summer!
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  • The green, refreshing environment in the yard of the café. It is so peaceful, that the only sound you can hear is the sound of the waves, unless a few locals (friends of kirios Giannis Tsepetis = the fat, polite, middle age owner) speak loud (as most of Greeks do), or play “tavli” (= backgammon) the famous but noisy game in Greece.
  • The tasty and refreshing drinks or snacks that Mr. Giannis or his (also fat) son can offer you, made of their own local products. They are also farmers, so they serve their own oranges (fruits or juice), vegetables and cheese in Greek salad, and if you are very lucky, Mr. Giannis’ wife will have made natural lemon juice (very sweet and refreshing) and homemade bread. This is one of the few places in Crete (and in Europe) where you cannot have coca cola or sprite, but only local soft drinks. You can also enjoy Greek beer and nice espresso, Greek Nescafe iced “frape”, or Greek coffee. And last (but not least) local Raki !!!

Mr Giannis’ snacks are enough to help you make it until your dinner destination next to Ravdouha beach. You will have the chance to visit 3 very interesting (but not highlighted) small churches. I named this part “the 4 churches trip” as there is one more to be aware of not losing your way! So back to the National road (keeping the direction to the West)

At the 3rd exit after the one to Platanias (on the way to Kissamos) is written “to Kalydonia – Aspra nera”. The exit before that (4 Km away) is the one to Kolympari. Take the 3rd exit and follow the few signs to RAVDOUCHA. On your way you must be very careful in 4 churches spots!

Firstly, a nice small stone gate, where is possible that admiring the beauty of it, you will keep driving slow (but not extra slow – which is very important, as the main road you must keep driving in, makes a difficult left curve).

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Secondly, the church with the small graveyard and the beautiful view. Since people buried here do not care about the view (I think they have better, from where they are), it is for the livings to make a short stop and enjoy the great sea view. Here is also the spot which makes it very easy to take the wrong way to the left. So, keep it in mind and follow the smaller asphalt road, which goes to the right (and down), just next to the church’s yard.

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We follow the sign to church of Agia Marina (the 3rd spot). It worths to stop there for a while and take a look of the small church with many old frescoes, build in a rock, with an interesting way of keeping the door closed, and the impressive shape of two big trees (platen and olive tree) standing side by side and strangling to survive in the small cliff, just next to the road. The big amount of natural water in the area is obvious not only by the size of these trees, but also by the construction of marble, stones and wooden roof just next to a huge rock, used as an artificial water spring.

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Very soon after the 3rd church, you will have to deal with the last dilemma about which way to follow. No matter if the signs are still there, you have to take the left side, to appear at THE PLACE, called “WAVE ON THE ROCK”. However, before that make a last stop at the 4th spot, a very small church on your left, which is also build in a rock (well, it was an easy, clever way to avoid extra stones for building and to save a lot of time and effort!).

So after few hundreds of meters, the nice but very narrow road ends in a natural parking place next to a beach (where a few old boats share the parking with cars), and on your left hand you can see the only building, which was the main reason to appear there.

Maybe at the beach you won’t see any sand and nothing more than pebbles (in different sizes), but the big variety of sea shells (as you will discover when you enter the tavern), and the very impressive high cliff at the left side (even more impressive when you swim close to it) are also good reasons for your visit.

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If you catch the last day light, you can enjoy swimming at the nice pebbly beach, watching the sun set.

So, after a refreshing swimming, it is time to take a seat almost next to the sea, among big trees which create the scenery of an old atmospheric movie of the 50s, and set yourself free to feel the magic of the moments when day passes the relay to night. Not forget to mention the -family style- honest care of Tho’ro and her family, who are very happy to see that you enjoy the delicious plates they prepare!

When the great dinner and the chat on the stories of the day are over, you can drive back to the National road (it takes about 30 min), and finally to your hotel. Unless you have programmed your holidays by spending nights in different places or you chose 2 or 3 days round trips, so here is a convenient spot to spend the night.

 

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In case you have booked one night here (there are a few rooms for rent at the 1st floor over the tavern) when you organized your visit in Crete, you will have 2 advantages. You can enjoy the magic feeling of the atmosphere in Ravduha, not only during, but also after your dinner, and you save time for your next day trip to THE UNBELIEVABLE SOUTH West Crete.

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Tags: Akrotiri, Archaeological museum, Gerani, monastery, nature, Norh coast beach, panorama, Ravduha, sacred, trip, Venizelos tombs
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