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Trip: South-Central Rethymno

Rethymno, TripsMarch 5, 2016Isidoros

Somatas-Castellos-Armenoi-Agouseliana-South coast beach-Asomatos-Ampelaki-Goudeliana

Departure from the hotel in Rethymno (if it is in Chania or Heraklion will take us about 1 hour more). We drive to the national road, taking the main road to the south, following the signs to “Spili”. After 3km the landscape changes from urban like to nice countryside. 5 km more driving and we turn on the right (there is sign to “Somatas” and to “Late minoan cemetery of Armenoi”), and a few minutes later we stop at the Archeological site of the cemetery (closed on Mondays). Although the most important findings are exhibited at the Archeological museums of Rethymno and Heraklion, there are still many impressive constructions worth to see there. The story of the discovery in 1965 is also interesting.

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Our next stop is the small village of Castellos, built on a hill, offering nice view. Nature around the village is so beautiful and special that explains why people chose this area to build a city 3500 years ago (as archeologists believe after they discovered the big cemetery we just visited). Most probably these ancient people estimated that the panoramic view (you can see the tops of the “white mountains” in Chania region) provided safety from intruders. Also, the small forest of oak trees and the springs of natural water create a healthy micro climate, turning the place to a perfect safe settlement.

We park the vehicle outside the tavern Castello (one of the first buildings at the village entrance, on our left) and we take a walk around, enjoying the beautiful nature (part of E4 path). We have the chance to breathe the fresh air among the oak trees and to notice many rare species of the endemic flora of Crete ( trees, flowers, herbs). Its also very possible to watch falcons flying around, looking for food.

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We can also visit the aesthetic church of Agia Paraskevi located in a beautiful place with a water spring, getting an idea why people got inspired of it and created stories about ferries.

Back to the vehicle and we make short stop at the tavern for a refreshing or a cup of local herbs mixture, where Vasilis (the x chairman of the village for 12 years) can fable some interesting stories about the area, under the pleasant shade of the big grapevine in his yard.

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We drive back to the main street (Rethymno-Spili) having a last stop to see part of the ancient stone path, used to connect Castellos with the Minoan cemetery we visited earlier. Our next stop is at the village of Armenoi, where we can have a short walk, noticing the typical architecture of an old Cretan village with narrow roads, high strong walls and small windows, specially made to protect people from the big number of different intruders during the last centuries.

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Back to the car, keep driving south and right turn, following the signs to “Chora Sfakion”, “Fragocastelo”, “Plakias”. Here we take the chance to drive in an unexpected good road (maybe the best in the whole island, out of the national road) since the works finished just in 2014, until our next stop at the village of Aguseliana.

There are a few interesting spots to see there (i.e. olive groves with huge, impressive trees, aged over 300-400 years) as the place offers a nice open view with high mountains to the South, which make us inpatient to overcome, experience the amazing view of the Libyan sea.

But we better be a bit patient, because this moment is a very good time to enjoy a shot of Raki (the famous Cretan spirit) served with delicious snacks, made by Nicky, with ingredients straight from trees and plants of her garden (or even better, from her pot!).

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We leave the pleasant, cool environment in the yard of “Mylos” for the warmer beaches of south Rethymno. If you are afraid of the very curvy road up and down the mountains between you and the south coast, there is a nice surprise for you. The access is much easier than you might think, offering the pleasant experience of crossing a small but beautiful gorge (Kotsifou) by car.

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The final choice of the beach depends on your wish about the facilities offered there. Starting from well-organized beaches with umbrellas, sunbeds, beach bars and taverns almost by the sea (Plakias-Damnoni), to small peaceful spots, where you can enjoy pure nature (Between Damnoni and Ammoudi, West of Souda). There are also a few sea caves, where you can swim watching sea birds and wild pigeons nesting there.

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There are a few signs (at the critical turning spots) which offer easy access to all these beaches. (A careful study of the map also helps). You have also the chance to try a few snacks, in case you feel hungry after a couple of hours in or by the sea.

Mythos restaurant in Damnoni is highly recommended – especially for fresh fish, where Andreas, his brothers and sister (the fish grill expert) are happy to offer tasty plates, using organic vegetables. Ammoudi restaurant (Daskalakis family) is also a good choice, but try not to get carried away (become overexcited) by the delicious food, as we shall be in one of the best taverns of Rethymno region in a couple of hours.

On the way back to the north coast, we cross the village of Asomatos, where you have an interesting trip back in time by visiting a 200 years manor house, turned in museum of PapaGeorgoulakis (a private collection of 3 generations of priest family). Starting from the south beaches, we join the main road (Spili – Rethymno) after 12Km

We drive 5 more km and we turn right, following the sign for Ampelaki village. If you wish to have a short walk among old houses with tidy yards full of flowers, and to enjoy a nice view to the South, this is the place to stop, before we appear to the village Goudeliana (after Ampelaki, we turn right at Kare village).

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A few meters after the small square of Goudeliana village, we look for a small road on our right hand (with signs to Archeological site) and in less than 1,5Km we visit the place where ancient (as well as Paleontological) findings were discovered. Unfortunatrlly there is no organized area, and the only way to feel that you are at the right spot is the few signs, the plain rocky ground and nothing more!! However it is a nice short ride before we visit the tavern Goules (back to the small square), where Kostas will prepare an unforgettable dinner. There is nothing better (after many hours under the strong sun) than a delicious meal in a cool environment of a very green village, just 20 min driving from most of Reth y mno hotels (or 90 min away from Heraklion hotels), where our day trip ends.

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Tags: Agouseliana, Ampelaki, Armenoi, Asomatos, Castellos, food, Goudeliana, nature, rethymno, Somatas, South coast beach, tavern, trip
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