Trip: North-East Rethymno

Mpali (or Bali) is a village by the sea, on the national road between Rethymno and Heraklion. Despite the name which reminds you the paradise place of South East Asia, the village named from a Turkish word translated honey, due to this high quality bees product. Today just a few bee keepers left since those times, but 700 meters before the exit to Bali (or after it, driving from Heraklion) we turn (south direction) where is the sign for Monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos. The 17th century building is important for its role in the struggle during the Turkish occupation, for which it was bombarded in 1866 by the Turkish navy. However, for us is very interesting to see the architecture of the building (part ruined-part restored), some fragmentary old frescoes and enjoy the serene garden. We keep in mind that the place is open after 9am, every day except Fridays.

Melidoni cave was used for several purposes, starting from the Neolithic period, basically as a shrine dedicated to different Gods by the Minoans, later times Greeks and Romans, but the most sad event took place in 1824. A shrine stands near the entrance in memory of 350 locals, who died in luck of oxygen when the Turkish soldiers who run after them put fire to make them come out. Obviously these people preferred to die than to become prisoners and were found 10 years later, by the traveler R. Parshley – the first person who entered the cave after this sacrifice. Both two rooms (on the left and right side) after the first room, are long (more than 30meters) and very beautiful. You may also enjoy the nice view to the South from the yard before the cave entrance, as well as the new, tidy wc!

Our next stop is the archeological site of Ancient Eleftherna. We visit many interesting spots – a mixture of ruins since 800BC and chapels from the first Byzantine period, like the Acropolis (a high tower still stands next to the entrance), the impressive Roman cisterns, the necropolis (where human sacrifices used to happened), the beautiful churches of Agia Anna and Sotiros Christos, and the magnificent Hellenistic bridge (still able to carry traffic across the river). It is very easy to realize how natural elements create a significant defensive position, and to be charmed by the beauty of the landscape.

Driving back (as to appear to the National road (direction north), after 7 Km we stop at the aesthetic village of Margarites, well known for the long tradition of making pottery. Here, we have a chance for a nice walk enjoying the beautiful combination of human – nature art! There are many studios making and selling a big variety of ceramics (some of them are copies or inspired by the ones in Minoan times), placing them among colorful flowers. Its very likely to enter there, watching the owner working-creating a pot, explaining his technique or telling touching stories about the history of some original ceramic items (most impressive, about the cup of Pithagoras).

Another interesting combination will take place as we stop in a blue doors tavern, which works also as the post office of the village! (There is an old yellow post box at the front door). We enjoy delicious snacks and drinks, and we notice many old tools and constructions connected with agricultural and nutrition activities (i.e. «kazani», the traditional distillation machine for making raki). It is hard to resist to the tasty food, but you should try, as our next stop is a place for swimming.